Technical: COATINGS

So coatings…

I mentioned them above. This is where you go when you want durability, insane beading, an almost candy-like finish to your paint and also when you don’t have the time to continuously work on your paint with polishes and waxes.

There are several that I used over time and each for different reasons. Here is a bit of a selection. It seems like I am a Gyeon agent at this point with all the products I have LOL. Anyway I haven’t tried their extremely high end stuff like Dura Bead which is for certified detailers only. I also have Carpro Cquartz on the C200 which is also excellent and has very similar characteristics to the equivalent Gyeon coatings.

[Image: AFc9lQZl.jpg]

and these are the core products

[Image: 3sb1hE4l.jpg]

Starting off with

Gyeon Wet Coat
This is a product that supposedly lasts about 12 weeks. It quite odd using it for the first time. I’ve used both the original and the noticeably better updated version in the pic. You spray it on a panel and then play around with it using your pressure washer. Seems like a gimmick until you are stuck in rain or you go through your next wash and it is beading and sheeting like a full-fat ceramic coating LOL. It provides protection to the whole car and (on my cars anyway) leaves NO residues or marks of any kind. You use approx. 80ml-100ml per car (in theory) but you can see from my 4L supply (and more in a smaller spray bottle) that I am totally converted to this for my own use as well as in some cases where it makes sense for my mates. Your paint needs to be in fairly good condition to use it (I used it last on the M5 when I realised I couldn’t complete the detail to ‘freeze’ the work in progress (whether that works or not I don’t know, but it has been working just fine the past 3 or 4 weeks!!). This doesn’t quite last 12 weeks on cars used like ours get used, but it gets close. I am adding a ‘workhorse’ of some description soon and this will be the go-to product for that on top of Can-Coat.

Next in the heirarchy is Gyeon Can Coat.

This is a product that Gyeon recommends for their mobile detailers (there is a pro version as well). It comes in a kit with several nozzles and a cloth. It is not applied like a regular coating. You spray it onto the cloth and wipe it on. With these coatings I use a respirator (not essential, but why put your lungs and sinuses through torture?). There are a couple of ways of using this coating that can last around 6 months (topping up an aging coating, applying as an entry level coating on newly prepped paint) – I can see a mobile detailer offering this instead of a wax or sealant and actually saving a lot of time in terms of how it is applied.

I first used this product because I didn’t know whether I was selling the M5 or not. The paint was good enough to not warrant a full detail and despite being around 14 months old (vs. a 12 month predicted life), between the prep I had done and the maintenance with Cure and sporadic use of Wet Coat, I didn’t really need a full new installation of coating. I spoke to a pro who suggested I try Can Coat (I decontaminated, did a mild correction where needed and then applied this). I still had enough to do my FIL’s E-class, Elantra before it was sent to my SIL and I still have plenty left over in the can now! I was very happy with the results and it was as though I had freshly applied the Gyeon One again. It is only now that I am doing a different coating.

As with any coating, your applicator/cloth needs to be tossed immediately. Also when opening the lid after sitting for some time as well as when you’re closing it up, you should take care to ensure no debris enters the bottle.

It’s at this point that preparation goes from important to absolutely critical as are the conditions (temperature, cleanliness) and lighting under which they are applied. This is also mask and glove territory as you are working with organic compounds that depending on the coating might leech into your skin or irritate your airways, trigger underlying respiratory conditions etc. You will see Gyeon Prep in the selection below which is used to wipe down panels after you’ve finished prepping the surface. There are also Gyeon polishes and compounds, but I have found it best to use your Rupes (I’ve used Mille Coarse & Fine), Menzerna (FG400 and SF4000) etc for the prep, wipe down with IPA and then use a final fine finishing pad to lay down some SiO2 with Prime. You don’t need the Prep product if you have time to leave the car in a clean room for 24 hours.

Gyeon One is the “Enthusiast” grade product and lasts about a year. In my experience it lasted beyond a year with minimal effort. It is probably the only product in the detailing world that has out-lasted its claims. It also dramatically reduces the effort needed to wash. Having the right cloths (in the post above) as well as care products actually makes this more cost effective vs. using a ‘premium’ system. I think with some of the very high end boutique waxes, on certain types of finishes, you might get slightly better results if you have a REALLY good eye. At this point it becomes quite subjective either way and there are other factors that play into why you would go that route.

Gyeon Rim has better temperature resistance and can withstand harsher chemicals. In reality I think most of the coatings are able to withstand a heck of a lot once cured. I did coat my wheels with Gyeon One and found it lasted about 3 months before it was noticeably ‘degrading’. Gyeon Rim remains to be seen but I will report back.

Gyeon MOHS is as good as you will get for a ‘professional grade’ product without becoming a Gyeon Certified Detailer (ie: you have a detailing studio and you have a year’s worth of experience working with the products etc). The coatings beyond this point come with 5 to 10 year warranties hence needing the certification I guess (the warranty is dealer agnostic). I will have to report back to you on MOHS but the major difference is that it can be layered… This contributes to longevity and the final finish. It also makes it more crucial that you have good lighting to identify and eliminate high-spots (I have LED downlighters and mobile LEDs).

All these products are far easier to work with than most detailers would have you believe. However they are also more difficult than Youtubers would have you beleive 

 if you have any questions please do ask. If you are half-competent at detailing and have good enough lighting available you will be absolutely fine.

Hope you found that interesting and next post will be something NOT Gyeon and NOT Karcher